The Ultimate Guide: What to Look for When Buying a Leather Jacket

A real leather jacket will fit a body and age really well whereas ordinary outerwear will fade fast. The market is however saturated with cheap synthetic products and designer goods that are over-priced, making one question what to choose. The only way to get a masterpiece for decades is to know what to look for when buying a leather jacket. The quality of the hides, their hardware, and the price are covered in this guide so that you can easily spot a well-made product and good value. 

Begin With Knowing Hide Quality

The number one factor is the leather itself. The term leather is highly regulated but often is misappropriated by fast-fashion brands to deceive consumers. A jacket that feels like a plastic shower curtain or that is too thin and too light is almost certainly synthetic. This is what you should know about leather grades and animal hides. 

The Grades of Leather

  • Full-Grain Leather: It is the highest level of leather quality. Full-grain leather refers to leather that has not been sanded, buffed or snuffed to smoothen the surface of the leather hide and remove any natural markings, scars or imperfections. The natural grain will stay totally intact for maximum fiber strength and breathability. In addition, full-grain is the only leather that will take a true rich patina–the soft dark sheen that makes vintage jackets look fantastic.

  • Top Grain Leather: This is the second highest quality leather with the exception that it is not the top grain. The highest and toughest part of the hide is separated and the surface is lightly sanded to eliminate scars and blemishes for a more consistent and pure finish. It is slightly thinner and more supple than full-grain and very popular for high-end fashion jackets where the buttery-soft drape straight out of the package is crucial.

  • Genuine Leather: Beware of this term. Technically it's anything from an animal, but “genuine leather” is frequently used to describe the cheapest cuts by the industry. It is typically made from scars from corium layers of the hide that have undergone extensive processing, an artificial grain pattern is stamped on it, and it is painted. It is not breathable, and will crack and peel with time.

  • Faux/PU/Vegan Leather: These are synthetic polymers (plastics) used on a fabric backing material. They are a good idea in a budget-friendly fashion, but they are not breathable, they are not warm, and, after a year or two of frequent use they will start to literally fall apart. 

The Different Types of Animal Hides

The animal from which the hide comes determines the jacket's weight, stiffness and final use. 

  • Cowhide: The cowhide is very thick, heavy and at first quite stiff. It's the top option for real motorcycle jackets, as it's incredibly resistant to abrasion. It does require a period of "break in," but then it is almost impossible to destroy.

  • Sheepskin and Lambskin: The best of the best of luxuries. Lambskin is very soft, light and flexible as it comes from the store. It provides a gorgeous, sophisticated look and it's the best option for high-end streetwear, cropped jackets, and trendy designs.

  • Calfskin: Calfskin is naturally softer and more buttery than lambskin, but has a higher percentage of durability and thickness of older cowhide. 

The Hardware, Stitching, and Inner Construction

After the quality of the hide has been confirmed, you should check the build details of the piece. A jacket is as weak as its weakest seam or zipper. 

Heavy-Duty Hardware

Be sure to note the metal. The first obvious indication of low-quality clothing is the presence of a cheap, light weight zipper that sticks, snags or unravels. You prefer to have robust and heavy-duty hardware. Find zippers that are marked 'YKK' or 'RiRi', these are the industry benchmarks for quality, high-strength zippers. Feed the main zipper up and down several times - it should be smooth but firm. Also inspect snap buttons, buckles and rivets. They should be firmly set into the thick leather and not loosely rattle in the fabric. 

Density of Thread and Stitch

Leather is a tough and thick fabric to sew. Special industrial sewing machines and very strong thread are needed. Check out the sleeves, back and shoulder seams. It needs to be a heavy duty bonded polyester thread (cotton will eventually break down) perfectly straight and close together. 

The Inner Lining

One of the most common mistakes a buyer makes is that they overlook the inside of the jacket. The lining will have an impact on the way the jacket breathes and how it moves over clothes. 

  • Polyester: Used in less expensive jackets. It traps heat and moisture, causing you to sweat a lot.

  • Cotton: A natural fibre that feels breathable and comfortable, and is commonly used as a fabric in the body of quality casual jackets.

  • Cupro / Bemberg: A luxurious, silky fabric from cotton linter. It is breathable, smooth, and is usually used in the sleeves of high quality jackets, so that your arms go in easily.

  • Shearling / Quilted Wool: These are the best option for jackets to use in the wintertime; they provide outstanding insulation and have no bulk. 

Finding the Perfect Size

A high quality leather jacket should be more like a kind of custom armor than anything else. Real leather will stretch out and conform to your particular body type as it breaks in, so you want the jacket to be quite tight when you first get it home. 

  • Natural shoulder line: Should be lined with the true shoulder line. If the seam hangs down your bicep, it's too big and will look sloppy. If it pulls hard towards the neck it is too small and it will not allow your movement.

  • High armholes: The hallmark of high-end tailoring. If the arm holes are too low through, lifting your arms will raise the body of the jacket up to your chest.

  • Sleeve Length: Classic biker and bomber jacket sleeves should terminate at the base of the thumb or wrist bone with arms hanging to their natural length at the side. 

  • Hemline: A standard motorcycle, racer or bomber jacket should be cropped. The hem at the bottom needs to be at or just below the waistline of a person. If a casual jacket has back pockets, it is too long.

Assess The Pricetags: How Much Do Leather Jackets Cost?

One of the biggest issues for people buying for the first time is getting confused by the wide range of prices and the lack of clarity. So, they fail to understand if the product is really worth their money or not, they might even overspend. 

This market is highly segmented but this will help you gain a better understanding of what you're paying for at different prices: 

  • Under $150: You’re buying faux PU plastic or bonded dust. It is mass produced with low quality zippers and polyester linings, and is intended for fast fashion wear which will tear or peel after one season.

  • $250 - $600: This is the sweetspot. In this area you can find top grain or full grain leather, heavy duty YKK hardware, breathable linings, and customised sizing - as long as you are choosing the right provider.

  • $1,000+: This is when you are getting exotic skins, silk linings and prestige. If you're spending $2,000 at a luxury buying outlet, you don't really have to pay for higher quality leather than in a $500 leather jacket, you are paying for the name of the designer and their high-end retail stores. 

So if you're not sure exactly how much to pay for a leather jacket that will last for years without having to spend a designer's dream, you should expect to spend $300-$500 on the jacket. This leaves the manufacturer with a margin of error to use real, high quality animal hides and thick metal hardware without having to economize on the materials used to ensure the jacket's structural integrity. 

Where to Buy a Good Leather Jacket (Plus What to Avoid)

The final key step is determining who to use as your supplier. To know where to buy a good leather jacket implies an understanding of the drawbacks of the traditional retail model. When it's time for modern shoppers to determine “where can I buy a good leather jacket”, they tend to turn to department stores or malls. Unfortunately these retail giants work on huge margins, using poor hides to maximize corporations profits and selling them at a premium. When it comes to knowing where to buy a good leather jacket, you can't just turn to any random dealer and expect to discover a piece with some genuine hardware and top-grain leather - you have to seek out dedicated and specialized outfitters who maintain their own supply chain. 

With direct-to-consumer brands, people don't have to deal with retail price increases; every dollar you put in goes right into the craftsmanship. In this frustrating situation, customers wonder where to get a good leather jacket without paying an outrageous price for luxury brands, ZOQ Leather is here to help you out. We eliminate the middle man and expensive storefronts, and deliver handcrafted quality directly to your door. From browsing “where to buy leather jackets” on the internet for casual weekend wear to serious motorcycle riding, our collections are created with 100% genuine top grain cowhide and sheepskin to ensure true luxury is always possible. 

Caring and Basic Maintenance

After you've acquired your ideal jacket, there's not much to protect it – if you follow a few simple rules: 

  • Condition Twice a Year: Leather is natural skin. Its moisture will be lost through the cold dry air of winter and the sun of summer. Every six months, condition the hide to keep it supple, soft and crack-free using a good-quality natural beeswax or lanolin leather conditioner.
  • Proper Storage: Don't fold a leather jacket or pack it in a really small drawer. Put it on a wide, contoured wooden hanger at all times to maintain the shape of the shoulders. Keep in a ventilated cotton bag of clothes – avoid plastic bags as they retain moisture and lead to mildew.
  • Dealing With The Rain: When it rains, do not panic. Just clean the water away using a soft dry microfiber towel, and air dry the jacket at room temperature. Never use a hairdryer or hang it over a radiator as the natural oils in the leather will be ruined by excessive artificial heat. 

Frequently Asked Questions

Where can I find a good leather jacket for sub-zero winter weather? 

For those in colder climates, you should search for brands specializing in true shearling and cow hide quality that are heavier. In order to be of proper use, they need to be tailored with thick and insulating linings which require special expertise from a leather artisan. To trap your core body heat, make sure you use all the thickness of the hide and the genuine sheep's wool or heavy fleece lining. 

Where to purchase a good leather jacket for everyday wear?

For everyday wear that feels comfortable right away, you can go to specialty stores that have high quality lambskin or sheepskin styles. These hiders are also ultra-soft and light – ideal for everyday streetwear. 

Is a heavier leather jacket better? 

Not necessarily. The weight is dependent on the application. Heavy cowhide jackets are great for riding motorcycles and in the winter as they can withstand abrasion and wind; lighter lambskin jackets are perfect for luxury fashion, ease and versatility for layering. 

How much for a leather jacket that is custom-made or bespoke? 

Leather jackets made to measure or fully bespoke are priced from around $700 and up to $2,000, depending on the exoticity of the hide, the design and its complexity.